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2017年10月23日 14:07:56    日报  参与评论()人

第六人民医院金山分院割双眼皮价格费用上海复旦大学附属华山医院治疗痘痘多少钱More fashion musical chairs! The Hermès women’s wear designer Christophe Lemaire is leaving “to dedicate myself fully” to his own line. The show in October will be his last.时装界的抢椅子游戏又有了新空位!爱马仕(Hermès)的女装设计师克里斯托弗·勒梅尔(Christophe Lemaire)将辞职,“专注于”自己的装品牌。10月份的时装秀将是他在爱马仕的最后一场时装秀。Anyway, the news comes at an interesting time: Hermès just released its results for the first half of 2014, and y-to-wear and accessories were up 16 percent — more than leather goods or silks (granted, it was starting at a lower level, but still). That raises the question: Will the fashion house continue to invest in women’s wear, or pull back?不管怎样,这条消息是在一个有趣的时刻公布的:爱马仕刚公布了它2014年上半年的业绩,成衣和配饰增长了16%——高于皮具或丝绸的增长(当然,成衣和配饰的起点较低,但仍然不可小觑)。这引发了一个问题:这家时装公司会继续在女装上投资还是收缩战线?This will be the first real test of Axel Dumas, the chief executive who took the reins this year, and his strategic plans for the brand.这将是对今年上任的首席执行官阿克塞尔·杜马(Axel Dumas)以及他的品牌战略的第一个真正考验。Although Hermès is still widely known as a leather goods and silks brand, Mr. Lemaire’s recent shows had been well received, and he was quietly carving out a convincing style for the luxury name, focused on extraordinary materials and style over fashion.虽然爱马仕仍被普遍认为是一个皮具和丝绸品牌,但是勒梅尔最近的时装秀都获得了好评,他正在悄悄地为这个奢侈品牌开创令人信的风格,把重点放在卓越的面料和时尚特色上。It came as a sort of antidote to the much more showy work of Jean Paul Gaultier, who had been hired by the former chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas. Despite being at the brand for seven years, from 2003 to 2010, Mr. Gaultier never seemed entirely comfortable with Hermès’s understated approach as defined by its first catwalk designer, Martin Margiela (1997-2003), who was famous for setting his shows to the murmured conversation of women.这似乎与前任首席执行官让-路易斯·杜马(Jean-Louis Dumas)雇佣的让·保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)正好相反,高缇耶的作品要艳丽得多。尽管高缇耶从2003年至2010年为该品牌务了七年,但他似乎一直不能完全适应爱马仕的第一位时装设计师马丁·马吉拉(Martin Margiela, 1997-2003)确立的低调风格。马吉拉以在女人们的低语声中展示装而闻名。Though the “leaving to concentrate on his own brand” line can be interpreted in many ways — some good, some less so — it seems to be genuine in this case. Hermès, however, isn’t saying much about what happens next.虽然“专注于自己的品牌”这样的说辞可以有很多解释——有的很好,有的不那么好——但是这一次似乎是真的。不过,爱马仕没有对接下来会发生什么解释太多。To be specific, Mr. Dumas said: “I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s y-to-wear. Under his artistic direction the me#769;tier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart.”杜马是这么说的:“克里斯托弗用丰富了我们公司对女装成衣的表达,对此我十分感激。在他的艺术指导下,我们的女装审美焕然一新,取得了非常令人满意的经济效益。我祝愿他自己的品牌取得巨大成功,那个品牌非常贴近他的心。”Nice — and bland.说得挺好——但也很平淡。So will Mr. Dumas follow his late uncle’s strategy and go for a big name, who will bring buzz and global acclaim (and potentially higher costs) to the Hermès shows? Will he take a step back, and go for someone less famous, who may be humbler in the face of the house’s heritage? Will he pull back from women’s wear entirely?杜马会追随他已故的叔叔的策略,找一位著名设计师吗?这将给爱马仕的时装秀带来喧闹和全球称赞(也将增加公司成本)。抑或他会后退一步,找一个不那么出名的设计师,这位设计师在面对该公司的传统时会更谦逊一点?他会完全撤出女装市场吗?And will LVMH Mo#235;t Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns 23 percent of the shares but thus far has been a seemingly silent investor, have any say in the matter?掌握该公司23%的股份的路威酩轩(LVMH Mo#235;t)集团到目前为止似乎是个默默无闻的投资者,它会干涉这件事吗?All possibilities are on the table. It’s always a big deal when a major house changes designers, but I’d say this is a particularly big one. Not just because Hermès is such a feted name, but because what it does next — demonstrate a belief in the power of the Fashion Show (yes, capital letters intended) as a marketing tool or not — could influence the whole industry.各种可能性都存在。大型时装公司更换设计师永远是件大事,但我得说这一次尤为重要。不仅因为爱马仕是个备受赞誉的品牌,而且因为它的下一步行动能表明该公司是否认为时装秀(是的,我故意用了大写)是一种有力的市场营销工具,这个态度会影响整个时装业。No pressure there, then. Young designers, start your lobbying.所以别有压力。年轻设计师们,开始游说吧。 /201407/314808上海交通大学医学院附属仁济医院纹眉毛多少钱 She asked me what I did for a living. When I told her I was a writer, she frowned and said a new nose could help me find a better job.她先是问我是干哪行的。当知道我是个作家后,她皱了皱眉头说整下鼻子就能帮我找份更好的工作。“Your nose is too flat. A well-shaped nose commands respect,” said the consultant. “Businessmen come in to get more prominent noses. And ladies have better chances in both career and love after their operations.”“你的鼻子太扁了。漂亮的鼻子会让人‘顿生敬意’。”整容顾问说,“老板们来这里都是为了整个好看的鼻子。整容后的女人会事业爱情双丰收。”I was in one of the biggest cosmetic surgery hospitals in China, located in the southern city of Shenzhen, where over half the population is made up of migrants from other parts of the country. Most of them are here for factory or construction work, but many long for better prospects.这是我在深圳一家全国最大的整形医院采访时的内容。来这家医院整容的人大半都是外地人。他们大部分人都在深圳的工厂或建筑公司上班,但很多人都希望生活能过得更好些。A nose job costs around ,900 at this hospital, which is a bargain compared to the average cost of rhinoplasty in the US of ,500, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. But when the average yearly income for urban residents in China is just ,000 and the average monthly pay for a migrant worker a measly , a nose job would take years for most people to save up for.(在这家医院)做一次隆鼻手术的价格是2900美元。对比美国整形协会的数据—均价4500美元,这个价格算是便宜的了。但当了解到中国城镇居民的年均收入只有7000美元,而外来打工者的月薪也只有可怜的40美元时,对大部分打工者来说,要想做一次隆鼻手术他们得攒上好几年的时间。Yet cosmetic surgery is an investment more and more Chinese women from all rungs of society are splashing out on, according to new research from the Chinese University of Hong Kong. And it’s not all about vanity. Those who go under the knife usually believe surgery would improve all aspects of their lives.然而,中国香港大学的最新研究显示,中国花钱整容的女性越来越多,各行各业的都有。她们并不一定是为了虚荣,且她们通常认为整容将全面改善她们的生活。“The dramatic economic, cultural and political changes in China have produced immense anxiety experienced by women, which stimulates the belief that beauty is capital,” said anthropologist Wen Hua, author of the recently published book, Buying Beauty: Cosmetic Surgery in China.最近中国出版了一本书叫《买来的美丽:在中国整容》,该书的作者兼人类学家文华(音译)谈到:“中国在经济、文化和政治上经历了巨大的变革,这令中国的女性们产生了极大的焦虑情绪,从而促使她们认为漂亮就是资本。”The idea that beauty is capital “epitomizes the idea that good looks are the key to increased opportunities for social and career success,” she said. “Cosmetic surgery has become a form of consumer choice; it reflects in microcosm the transition of China from communism to consumerism with its own Chinese characteristics.”“好的相貌对改善人际关系和职业晋升都至关重要,这也折射出‘漂亮就是资本’的思想。“她还说道,“整容已变成了消费者的一个选择,这从微观上反映出中国正在由共产主义社会过渡到中国特色的消费主义社会。”Wen’s research focused on field studies in Beijing, interviews with 58 women from age 16 to 55 and analysis of Chinese media reports. She found that cosmetic surgery is less taboo in China than in North America, and is particularly popular among women struggling to find work.文华的研究内容主要包括在北京地区进行实地调查,对58名年龄从16至55岁不等的女性进行采访,以及对媒体的报道进行分析。她发现,相对于北美地区,整容在中国的忌讳要少些,而且在那些急于找工作的女性中整容尤为盛行。Between 1993 and 2001, 43 million urban employees were laid off, amounting to a quarter of China’s total urban labor force. Women were often the first to be laid off and the last to be hired back, and when applying for jobs they encountered much more discrimination than men, said Wen.1993年至2001年间,中国约有4300万城镇居民下岗,这一数字相当于中国城镇劳动力人数总和的1/4。文华表示,最先解雇的是女员工,最后复工的也是女员工,相比男人来说,女人在找工作时遭受的歧视要多得多。A 2003 review of job advertisements found that among positions open to women, nearly 90 percent were open only to those younger than 30 years old. Youth is particularly cherished in a country where women who remain unmarried past the age of 27 are labelled “leftover women” by the government. Women who don’t meet minimum height requirements (usually set at 1.58 meters) are also often denied government jobs.对2003年的招聘广告回顾后发现,在这些面向女性的职位中,几乎90%的职位都要求应聘者在30岁以下。在中国,年轻人会受到百般照顾,而女性在27岁之后还没结婚的话,政府就会给其贴上“剩女”的标签。女性身高若不足最低身高要求(通常是1.58米),政府部门也通常不予录用。But these obstacles have not kept women from aiming high. A 2011 study by the Centre for World-Life Policy found that 76 percent of women in China aspire to top jobs, compared with 52 percent in the ed States.尽管存在各种限制,但也不能阻止她们的远大追求。2011年,世界生活政策中心曾进行过一项调查,结果显示76%的中国女人渴望高级职位,而在美国这一比例是52%。Ambitious women who turn to cosmetic surgery to gain an edge in the job market fuel a 2.5 billion a year industry in China that has grown at a pace of 20 percent per year, according to the official Xinhua News Agency. China is now the third largest market for cosmetic surgery in the world, after the US and Brazil, although when population is taken into account cosmetic surgery may be most common in South Korea.据新华社报道,事业型的女人会将整容当作是工作中的一种优势,中国的整容行业会因她们而产生每年25亿美元的收益,且年均增长达20%。目前,中国是世界第三大整容市场,仅次于美国和巴西。而就整容的人数来看,韩国则是整容最流行的国家。In China, the practice has become so socially accepted that beauty pageants have been held especially for “artificial beauties” and vocational schools for flight attendants routinely herd students into cosmetic surgery hospitals, said Wen.文华说道:“在中国,整容已经相当普遍 ,到处都有专门甄选“人造美女”的选美比赛。 有些培养空的职业学校甚至还会定期组织学生去医院整容。”Outside the hospital in Shenzhen, I met a woman surnamed Liu from a smaller city in Guangdong Province, who had also come from a consultation. She had glossy hair, a pointed nose and a slim figure. She showed off her long legs in a mini-skirt and platform heels.在这家深圳的整容医院外面,我遇见了一位广东某个小县城来的刘女士,她也是来这里整容的。头发锃亮,鼻子尖尖的她身材很好,穿的迷你裙很配她的长腿,脚上穿着一双平跟鞋。“I’m thinking of getting herbal weight loss injections,” she told me. “Injections are safer and cheaper than liposuction.”她说:“我想用药物注射来减肥,药物注射要比抽脂手术安全些。”In the past year, Liu, a 28-year-old administrative assistant at a financial company, had aly undergone double-eyelid surgery and rhinoplasty at the hospital, which offers a mind-boggling range of procedures including some adapted from traditional Chinese medicinal practices. When I asked Liu why she chose to get cosmetic surgery, she said: “It’s just like applying makeup; everybody wants to enhance their beauty. A woman especially needs to work to maintain her appearance as she gets older.”刘女士今年29岁,曾任职于一家金融公司做行政助理。她去医院隆过鼻,也拉过双眼皮,这些手术的复杂程度超乎想象,有些手术还是源自传统的中药疗法。当我问她为什么选择整容时,她回答到:“这就好比是化妆吧,每个人都想要自己变得更漂亮。女人年龄一大(皮肤)就特别需要保养。”A daughter of struggling shopkeepers, Liu said she was barely able to finish secondary school and was lucky to find decently paid work. “I wouldn’t have been hired if I had been an ugly duckling,” she said. Liu is now worried she will lose her job once she gets older. She has taken evening classes in business management, but believes an attractive appearance is just as important as education.因为得帮着母亲忙生意,刘女士说,“我初中都没上完就辍学了,幸好找到了份体面的工作。如果我是个‘丑小鸭’,我是不会被录用的。”刘女士现在担心随着年龄的增大,她会失去这份工作。虽然她晚上也去学习商业管理课程,但她仍然认为好的相貌和良好的教育背景两个都重要。Liu is aware of the horror stories of botched surgeries. Around the world, risky operations such as “leg-stretching” surgery are rarely used for cosmetic purposes but such operations are popular in China. In efforts to meet height requirements for jobs, men and women have paid tens of thousands of yuan to have their bones broken so that doctors could insert steel pins under the knees and above the ankles, but complications have left dozens of people crippled for life. China’s Ministry of Health has banned some risky cosmetic surgeries, but most private clinics for cosmetic surgery are widely unregulated.刘女士对整容失败的不幸遭遇也有所耳闻。就全世界来说,像拉腿这样存在风险的手术很少会被当作整容手术来进行,但它在中国却颇为流行。为了达到职位的身高要求,求职者们不惜花费数万元来切断腿骨,并分别在膝盖和脚踝处植入钢钉。目前已有数十名患者因并发症而导致终身残废。中国卫生部明令禁止此类有风险的整容手术,但许多私人整容诊所仍然在违规进行。Out of curiosity, I decided to visit a private clinic in Shenzhen. After an hour of walking in circles, I found the clinic on the 18th floor of a rundown residential building with drunk or drugged men sprawled in the hallways. A teenage boy greeted me at the door, and sat me down for the consultation at a flimsy table while his father watched a soap opera a few feet away in the living room. The clinic doubled as their living quarters.出于好奇,我决定去当地一家私人诊所看一看。在一栋旧居民楼里转了一个小时后,我终于在18楼找到了一家私人诊所,楼道里躺着几个人,可能是喝醉或者是嗑药的吧。诊所门口有一男孩,见我就热情地询问并招呼我在一个桌子旁坐下,桌子有些破了,而此时男孩的父亲正在几尺远的客厅里看电视剧。I inquired about liposuction treatments, but the boy mumbled something about the doctor being unavailable and to my horror, suggested that I get human placenta injections instead, vaguely explaining that placenta treatments are “good for women.” The injections cost about ,630 per pack of five syringes and must be self-administered. I declined the offer and bolted out of the clinic.我向男孩咨询了有关抽脂手术的情况,但他却吾说医生现在没空,居然还建议我进行胎盘注射,还含糊地说胎盘注射手术对女人“有益”,这可把我吓坏了。手术需花费1630美元左右,一包注射器(5个/包),须自己注射。我婉拒了男孩的建议,并迅速离开了诊所。“Cosmetic surgery is a choice and you have to make the best decisions for yourself and your family,” said Liu. “That’s what people are doing all over China today.”刘女士说:“整容手术是一个选择,而你得为自己和家人做最好的选择,这就是当下中国人都在做的事情。” /201311/264273上海中医药大学附属龙华医院做隆胸手术多少钱

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上海医治狐臭Juicy Couture, the once-hot brand known for its velour track suits favored by celebrities, recently said it would close all of its U.S. stores this summer while it goes off to re-invent itself.时尚品牌Juicy Couture曾经因为天它的天鹅绒材质运动备受知名人士喜爱而名噪一时。然而,这个品牌最近表示,将于今年夏季关闭美国境内的所有店铺,在此期间重塑品牌形象。But while it rethinks its U.S. business, it has its eyes fully trained on fashion’s new promised land: China.Juicy Couture在重新规划自己在美国本土业务的同时,将目光牢牢对准了时尚行业的新乐土:中国。Authentic Brands Group, Juicy Couture’s owner, on Tuesday announced a long-term partnership with ImagineX Group, a China-based brand management company, that first bought the management and distribution rights of Juicy Couture for Greater China and South East Asia in 2006. The idea is to deepen the brand’s reach into China by getting it into another 40 locations and expanding the brand’s assortment.本周二,Juicy Couture母公司Authentic Brands Group宣布,已经与中国品牌管理公司俊思集团(ImagineX Group)签订了长期合作协议。Authentic Brands Group最先于2006年买下了Juicy Couture在大中华区和东南亚地区管理经销权。它目前的想法是,通过增设40家门店以及扩充产品系列,进一步扩大Juicy Couture品牌在中国的发展。The two parties’ new arrangement will have a minimum term of 10 years with an option to extend it for two more 10-year terms. ImagineX, which works also works with brands like Salvatore Ferragamo, and Marc Jacobs, will now try to bring the brand to locations beyond shopping malls. It will also add a new Juicy footwear collection produced by Steve Madden next year. Finally, it plans to open Juicy Couture freestanding stores in the coming years. (Many Western brands start off in China with sections inside department stores.)Authentic Brands Group和俊思集团签订的新协议最短期限为十年,在协议期终止后,可再续签两个十年期的协议。除Juicy Couture外,俊思集团还在与Salvatore Ferragamo和Marc Jacobs品牌合作。目前,俊思集团将尝试在大型商场之外开设Juicy Couture门店,并将于明年新上线由Steve Madden公司制作的一个鞋履系列。最后,俊思集团计划在未来几年之内,在传统商业区以外,开设独立的Juicy Couture门店。(在中国,许多欧美品牌都是从百货商场的店面发展起来的。)As it builds out in China, Juicy will have plenty of painful U.S. lessons it can draw from to avoid making the mistakes that drained its fashion cred stateside. (Juicy will return to U.S. stores this fall when it is sold in Kohl’s , a far cry from the luxury department stores such as Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s it used to be available in its early years.)Juicy在美国得到了大量的惨痛教训,在中国区的发展过程中,Juicy需要引以为戒,以避免像在美国一样,因决策失误而导致品牌迅速丧失时尚度。【Juicy将在今年秋季回归美国,在科尔士百货公司(Kohl#39;s)销售。而品牌早期是在Nordstrom和Bloomingdale这类奢侈品百货商场销售的——可见已经今非昔比。】Authentic Brands bought the struggling brand from the company now known as Kate Spade (and before that Fifth amp; Pacific Cos, and before that Liz Claiborne) for 5 million, reasoning that there was life yet left in Juicy Couture, a brand that at its peak in 2008 had annual sales of 5 million (primarily U.S. sales.) before going into free-fall.Authentic Brands公司从Kate Spade公司(前身为Fifth amp; Pacific Cos,再之前为Liz Claiborne)手中以1.95亿美元的价格买下了奄奄一息的Juicy Couture。这家公司认为,这个品牌仍有希望起死回生。在势头急转而下之前,Juicy Couture曾在2008年的巅峰期创下了年销售额6.05亿美元的佳绩(主要为美国本土销售)。But the brand built out its own chain of stores too quickly, including the kiss of death, outlets, and flamed out, with customers turned off by its ubiquity, its use of garish logos.然而,公司开设连锁店的速度过快,尤其是门店——本以为这会带来极大成功,结果却一败涂地。随着各大店铺的开张,Juicy很快变得满大街都是,再加上商标俗艳不堪,消费者逐渐丧失了兴趣。How the China expansion goes will be instructive for Juicy. It is planning to return to the U.S. with its stores that would be part of a fleet of 127 stores it will build globally in the next 5 years in major cities like New York City and Los Angeles and abroad in centers like Vancouver by early 2015.Juicy计划于2015年初回归美国市场开设店铺,并在未来5年内,在纽约、洛杉矶等大型城市,以及温哥华等海外中心城市共开设127家店铺。因此,中国区的扩张情况将对它下一步的计划具有启发性意义。 /201407/311016 上海第九人民医院整形科打瘦腿针多少钱上海市闵行区中医医院治疗腋臭多少钱

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